The City in the Mountains: Cusco, More Than Just a Stop Before Machu Picchu

There’s something about Cusco that feels ancient and alive at the same time. Where cobblestone streets wind between Inca walls, where women in bright woven skirts sit beside colonial cathedrals, and where you’re equally likely to run into a tour group or a baby alpaca.

Jack and I arrived in Cusco after a long journey from the coast of Ecuador. We took a three-hour taxi from Montañita to Guayaquil, and then flew to Cusco, Peru, with a layover in Lima. The view from the airplane window when flying into Cusco was incredible, we’d never seen anything like it. All of a sudden, the plane dips down and the Andes Mountains seem to swallow you up.

We'd gone from sea level in Montañita to over 11,000 feet in elevation, and we definitely felt it. The first three days were rough on our bodies. Between upset stomachs and having to stop after just a few steps up the stairs (and by the way, everywhere in Cusco there are stairs, the city is built on the sides of mountains), we moved slowly. Coca tea and coca candy helped with the altitude sickness, and I had purchased altitude patches before the trip that came in handy!

A lot of people fly into Cusco and immediately begin their journey toward Machu Picchu, but we cannot recommend enough, if you have the time, give yourself a few days in Cusco first to adjust to the altitude. Your body will seriously thank you.

Once we felt better, we began exploring the city. Cusco is said to be shaped like a puma, a sacred animal of the Inca. The puma symbolizes the power of the earth, with the puma’s head being the temple of Saqsaywaman (pronounced sex-eye-woman). We did a few free walking tours through GuruWalk. Don’t forget to tip your guides! We tried local Peruvian cuisine and drank pisco sours, the national drink of Peru. (Yum!) If you want to see how pisco and coca chocolate are made, the ChocoMuseo in Cusco offers tours.

Cusco is often seen as just a stopover before Machu Picchu, but that seriously undersells it. This city is layered, literally and historically. Once the capital of the Inca Empire, it now blends Andean and Inca culture with Spanish colonial architecture. We bought baby alpaca sweaters and drank our weight in strong Peruvian coffee. Nights do get chilly, so don’t forget a jacket!

Our favorite neighborhood to stay in was San Blas, a hilly area filled with artists, cafés, and steep staircases. When we weren’t working, we toured Inca ruins like Saqsaywaman and Qorikancha. Other days we just explored the city, stopping at local shops for empanadas or

sitting in Plaza de Armas.

The food was incredible! We did a free food tour with GuruWalk and tried:

• Chicha morada – a sweet purple corn drink

• Ají de gallina – creamy shredded chicken with yellow chili

• Lomo saltado – stir-fried beef with rice and fries

We also saw cuy (guinea pig), a local delicacy in Cusco. We didn’t try it, maybe next time?

If you’re heading to Machu Picchu, absolutely spend a few days in Cusco first. You’ll need time to adjust to the altitude anyway, and trust me, Cusco is more than worth the pause. It felt so sacred was personally one of my favorite places we visited in South America so far.